On the list of must do parkruns since it started earlier this year has been Inis Meáin parkrun located in the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. Access to the island is either by boat or plane. However, during the winter months, journeys to the island are less frequent due to low tourist numbers, and the weather also has a part to play. It’s not a trip you would make during the winter unless you had reason to be in Ireland anyway. Luckily, I visit Ireland often during the year and so there was no real problem if the weather got in the way, and I had to go elsewhere. I would have ample opportunity to rearrange for the summer months. My main stay as always was in County Laois, about a two hour journey to Galway. I didn’t fancy an early start, so I stayed at a B&B just beyond Galway City in a small town called Spiddal. I’d found a place called Aran View on booking.com at a rate of €70.00. Usually when I arrive at these places, it’s a case of “here’s your key, here’s your room, breakfast is at….”, and so on. This one was different. I was welcomed as if a friend or relative, shown my room, and then immediately invited for tea and biscuits in the front room, where the host Gerladine made me feel like I was in a friend’s home. She was extremely friendly and chatty. Soon after, another lady and her elderly mother arrived. They were also warmly welcomed, and immediately joined the chat. I was there for around two hours before deciding I had to go out to get dinner. The lady lent me a hi-viz so I would be safer walking back in the dark, and Gerladine very kindly said she would drive me into town and was more than happy to pick me up too – I just needed to call her when ready. A couple of Guinness after my dinner in the town hotel bar, and I decided to head back, except a pub across the road caught my attention so I headed in there to find some traditional Irish tunes being played by a couple with a guitar and accordion. I ended up leaving just after midnight and so too late to call for a lift. I walked back to find Geraldine in her front room chatting to another one of her guests. It would have been rude not to join them. I woke early the next morning for breakfast at 7:30, more chat, and was able to leave by around 8:10 for the journey to the airport. I must admit being a little nervous of the flight having never travelled on a ten-seater before. It turned out to be an enjoyable experience with a minor scare along the way – we landed after around ten minutes and as we parked up at the terminal building (like a small house), I noticed on the wall was the name of the smallest island. For a moment, I thought I had travelled on the wrong plane but was then informed this was a quick drop off. Around five minutes later, we arrived on Inis Meáin. I left the airport building and headed towards the Community Centre where parkrunners meet each week. Soon after 10:00, the day’s Run Director Doireann arrived. I asked if I could help in any way, and she promptly invited me to join her to drive the course planting the route markers as we went. When that was done, she took me on a whistle stop tour pointing out places such as the only shop and the only pub, but also driving to Synge’s Chair, and talking about her reasons for being on the island and some interesting facts such as how the land is divided, how it is preserved through not being over farmed, and so on. There’s clearly a wealth of information to learn about this island which may not be easily available on the web. There was also mention of a swim in the Atlantic which a few of islanders were going along to in the afternoon and I was very welcome to go along. I wimped out on the basis that I’m not equipped for such cold water, but in any case, I had nothing to wear for swimming and would have been cutting it fine to get back to the airport for my return flight. When we returned, more of today’s volunteers had arrived and I was introduced. We chatted a little and then shortly before 11:00 I got myself ready to start, and nearly missed it because of chatting to another volunteer in the hall. Fortunately, she alerted me, and I got out in time to walk the short distance up the hill and hear the briefing, in Irish Gaelic as well as English. The course is all on roads. There aren’t many cars to be seen driving around and so any car which did approach could be easily heard. The route took us up a short hill from the start before turning left and heading along a stretch of road which included the island’s shop and pub, as well as some traditional Irish country homes. That was along the highest section so when we turned left at the end of it, there were a couple of short sharp downhills, nice to counter the earlier up but equally requiring attention on the way down. Another left turn at the bottom and a long stretch back towards the start, interrupted by a right/left about halfway. Along the second stretch is the Inis Meáin Knitting Company before a final left turn and up the hill back to the start and onto lap two. The second lap completes by the community centre saving the pain of the hill we walked to the start but not forgetting there is still a hill leading up to the finish. I waited back to watch and clap other runners in, as had been done for me. Every person was warmly encouraged by name as they approached the halfway point and the finish, including me, the stranger from the city. This is what these people are about though, incredibly warm and welcoming. I also chatted to a couple of the men who hadn’t run but were just as much part of the event as everyone who had. One was a local, the other had recently moved from Brisbane, Australia with his wife. She was originally from the mainland, but they had moved to be with her mother who now lives on the island. Around midday, I thanked everyone and headed off to do some walking. The main site to see was Synge’s Chair (map location 53.084342, -9.612493), a place used by Irish playwright John Millington Synge. My phone’s directions were not perfect it’s fair to say. They took me to the end of the road but didn’t tell me exactly where to find it, which was across some grass and rocks. Fortunately, I found the map reference and was eventually able to find my way to the edge of the cliff and sit in the chair. The views are simply stunning and it’s easy to understand why anyone might want to go there to gather their thoughts. I made my way back towards the middle of the island eventually reaching the top of the hill I’d encountered shortly after the parkrun start point. On my way I passed a cow stood proud on a plinth-like piece of land, and a donkey roaming freely along the road. I just about made it to the shop in time to buy a drink before it closed for lunch, a nice reminder of the old days when the modern day demands which I’ve become used to were not there to cause us all the unnecessary stresses of today. I continued my journey and passed the home of one of the day’s parkrun volunteers. We had a brief chat before she kindly asked if I’d like to pop in for a sandwich and cup of tea. I said I was fine and thanked her, but the kind gesture did not go unnoticed. I continued my way and noticed a craft shop. Outside was a sign which suggested it could be open and so I ventured through the entrance to the rear outside area to find it was closed. The owner was near the exit out the other side and she was so apologetic when I asked if she was open. It really wasn’t a problem, and we then chatted for a few minutes. Typical of these people, she also asked if I’d like a cup of tea. Again, I declined but thanked her. I continued my way and thought I now needed to be a little aware of time, although there was plenty to not have to rush. I came a across a small beach, with dark grey sand and lots of stones and rocks. The colour was set off nicely by the winter sun which had now broken through after an overcast morning. As I headed back up to the road, I bumped into another local and we chatted about how he’d grown up on the island and had returned there after spending some time in England. He didn’t offer any tea but then the nearest residence at this point was the island’s cemetery. He mentioned the island’s population had declined in recent years, down to around 140 people having been around 300 not many years ago. After moving on, I stopped to look into the cemetery. Doireann had informed me that the graves are laid to be facing the sea. It’s thought that this allows their spirits to go free and means the islanders won’t be haunted! So, it was back to the airport. I would be quite early but not a problem. I could sit in the waiting room and read. Silly me. This is not Gatwick. This is a small island with three flights today and so when I arrived, it was locked. I decided to return to the Community Centre to rest. Having done that, I started my walk back to the airport, reversing some of the parkrun route. As I approached the Inis Meáin Knitting Company building, I noticed a car heading towards me, so I stopped to allow it to pass, and raised my hand to say hello, as many do in the Irish countryside, only for the car to stop. Inside were some of today’s parkrun volunteers on their way to swim. They tried to tempt me again, but I had to decline again as I had a flight to catch. They headed on their way and shortly after, another car approached. I prepared in the same way, and the same result. This time was one of the finish line volunteers and her son, and it turned out to be the lady who had offered me a sandwich and tea on my walk. Those two cars were like the perfect end to my visit, showing off the friendly and welcoming nature of the people of this island. By the time I made it back to the airport building, the check in agent arrived and I was able to head in. I had about 45 minutes to wait but I was indoors now, and it was starting to turn colder outside. I got on the scales to be weighed, hopefully lighter than when I’d left Connemara earlier in the day, and handed over my ticket - a paper ticket. I very nearly missed the plane. Once again, chatting to the friendly check in agent at the door to the tarmac. Luckily, he noticed the plane being prepared to leave and quickly ran out to alert the pilot.
So that was Inis Meáin. A trip that was worth every minute. The weather behaved and there was no wind or rain, and although overcast in the morning, the sun came out for the afternoon. The scenery and views around the island are simply stunning, and the people I met made the whole day perfect. It was a place so opposite to what I’m used to in London. I plan to return during the summer months, maybe next year, and I cannot recommend this place enough. For parkrunners, this is an obvious addition to the bucket list, but I’ve no doubt when you have been you will love the place even more.
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ABOUT MEHaving completed 5 marathons between 1999 and 2016, I decided this year, I would try to do it properly and plan my training! Alongside, I wanted to keep a blog as it went along, partly to look back on, and partly to help anyone else who may benefit from my own experiences. Archives
November 2023
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